Thursday, October 22, 2009

The Anne Frank House




These pictures are from my first visit 12 years ago.  I could not photograph or video tape this time.

In July 1942, Otto Frank, his wife Edith, and their two daughters, Margot and Anne went into hiding in the upper floors of Mr. Frank's business building on the Prinsengracht (Prince's Canal) in Amsterdam.  The Franks had left Germany many years earlier when rumblings against Jews began.(1933)  Anne, who could speak German, as she was born there, went to Dutch schools.  Her famous diary is written entirely in Dutch. The main reason to go into hiding was because a summons came ordering Margot to "report for work in the east".  East meant imprisonment.

A few months after they went into hiding, they were joined by the van Pels family (Hermann, Auguste, and their son, Peter) and Fritz Pfeffer.


The bookcase built to hide the secret annex.



The building they were hiding in is made up of two sections: the front part of the house and also a back part, known as the annex.  Mr. Frank's company was located in the front part of the house, with a warehouse on the ground floor.  On the upper floors of the annex, eight people lived together for more than two years.

On August 4, 1944 the German Security Police received an anonymous phone call: "There are Jews hiding at 263 Prinsengracht."  All eight people were arrested, along with two of the office people helping them, Jo Kleiman and Victor Kugler.  Other office workers, Miep Gies and Bep Voskuijl were not arrested.  It was Miep who went upstairs after the arrest and found Anne's diary and other papers.  Extensive investigations after the war have still not revealed who was responsible fo the betrayal.

Mr. Frank had thought this over very carefully, and asked people he knew he could trust. There were workers in the warehouse who were not told about the people hiding above them.  The rooms took a few weeks to get ready.  He even managed to bring Anne's movie star picture collection.

During her stay, Anne kept a diary, and when she had filled it, loose paper and other notebooks were brought in.  Anne was a teenager, not an elementary child. She had plans to be a writer as an adult.  During the last few months of her hiding, she started to edit and rewrite her diary.  She had planned on writing a book about hiding when the war was over.  Her title would have been The Secret Annex.

















On the walls of one of the rooms, Anne had pasted all kinds of images to make the room more cheerful.  These includes postcards, a drawing of Leonardo di Vinci, Shirley Temple, and the  English Princesses,  Elizabeth and Margaret. (Elizabeth is now Queen of England.)  Several other American film stars have pictures on the walls, and I have often wondered if they ever visited the museum and  found their image glued to the wall.  In Anne's words

Our little room looked very bare at first with nothing on the walls; but thanks to Daddy who had brought my film-star collection and picture postcards on beforehand, and with the aid of a paste pot and brush, I have transformed the walls into one gigantic picture.  This makes it look much more cheerful. - Anne Frank, July, 11, 1942/Critical Edition

Occasionally, at night, Mr. Frank had to go downstairs to balance the books - he was still running a company.  Margot and Anne occasionally went with him.  This was dangerous as they could have been seen.  Anne describes one of these trips as "creepy."

While they were in hiding, they did have a radio.  They learned that Jews were being gassed.  Mr. Frank also kept a map of the Allied Forces and their whereabouts in France.

The fate of the eight people in hiding is known. They were arrested August 4, 1944. They were first sent to Westerbork, a camp in the Netherlands, and then on to Auschwitz.
  • Hermann van Pels was gassed at Auschwitz in September/October 1944
  • Fritz Pfeffer died of exhaustion on December 20, 1944 at the concentration camp at Neuengamme.
  • Edith Frank died of exhaustioon on January 6, 1945 in Auschwitz.
  • Margot Frank contracted typhus and died in March in 1945 in Bergen-Belsen concentration camp.
  • Anne Frank also contracted typhus and died a few days after Margot. (Over 35,000 people died during this typhus outbreak.)
  • Auguste van Pels died in April 1945, while being transported from Bergen-Belsen to the Theresienstadt concentration camp.
  • Peter van Pels died on May 5, 1945 in the sick bay of the Mauthausen camp.
  • Otto Frank survived Auschwitz and returned to Amsterdam in June 1945.
  • Bergen-Belsen was liberated on April 15, 1945.  It is believed by people who knew Anne during her last few months, that had she known her father was still alive, she may have tried to rally to stay alive.  She knew her mother and sister were dead, and she had given up her will to live.
  • At one point the eight people were only 120 miles from Allied Forces.

When he learned the fate of his daughters, Otto was given Anne's diary and papers that had been held in keeping by Miep.  Mr. Frank had agreed to publish her diary.  The first printing was under Anne's title The Secret Annex in 1947.  He did change the names of some of the people Anne mentioned in her diary. The diary, notebooks and loose papers that make up the book have now been translated into almost 70 languages. Anne's original red-checked diary is in its own separate room with special lighting so that it can be preserved.

Mr. Frank remarried in 1953 and lived in Basel Switzerland. He died in 1980 at the age of 91.  During his life after WWII, he was very active in making the secret annex accessible to the public as a museum. Shortly after the arrest of the people in hiding, everything was removed from the hiding place. (Good thing Miep got there first!)  When the hiding place became a museum in 1960, Mr. Frank wanted the rooms to remain unfurnished.  To show what it must have looked like for the families living there, small scale models were made in 1961 based on specific details provided by Mr. Frank.

A book The Last seven months of Anne Frank by Willy Lindwer tells about Anne's life when she entered the concentration camps.  The six women who knew her, one of them from childhood, survived and have added their stories to Anne's.  Anne Frank Remembered, is the Academy Award winning best documentary film about Anne's life.  When this film won its award, Miep Gies was allowed to accept the Oscar.

When visiting this museum it is important to know that the stairwells are extremely steep, and cannot be navigated by those with knee problems.  Strollers and wheelchairs cannot be accomodated.

Other excellent books are Upon the Head of the Goat, and Grace in the Wilderness by Aranka Siegal, who survived Bergen-Belsen.  The first book is a Newbery Honor Book and tells about life before Bergen-Belsen.  The second book tells about how the Red Cross locates Aranka (called Piri in the book) and her sister to Sweden, whether they wanted to go or not, and about finding out what happened to their familes.  Mrs. Siegal refused to write about her life in the camps stating it was too painful.  She did not know Anne Frank, although they were in Bergen-Belsen at the same time.

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Racing to Haarlem

 The Alpina sign to let Jews know it was safe to approach.   The ten Boom home in Haarlem.


The front parlor. A picture of the ten Boom sisters, Betsy, Nolly and Corrie.







The hiding place in Corrie's bedroom that saved many Jews.  A child is going through the crawlspace to demonstrate how small this is.




My main goal on this long layover was to videotape two museums.

tenBoom Huis 

 The book The Hiding Place is a must read for everyone.  I have been here before, and I believe I was able to take pictures.  I didn't think I would make it here, as the last tour is at 3:30 p.m.  However, a good tail wind got me into Amsterdam early.  It is amazing how fast I can run through an airport with arthritic knees, being overweight, and carrying luggage!  I got through customs - waved me through - no stamp, put my luggage in a locker, had to go back to locker to get camera, and almost went back for book on the Netherlands. Fortunately, I have been here before and know my way around.  Got a ticket for Haarlem and was on my way.

I made it just in time for the last tour, which was in Dutch! I understand German, so I got about 20% of what she was saying. It was a full tour, so my pictures won't do it justice.  The guide would not let me be the caboose at the end if the group so I could videotape.

Monday, October 19, 2009

Getting Ready for Amsterdam

Today is my last day in Norway. My hosts keep telling me outright to get a job in the international school here. I must admit it is very tempting, but I have work to do in Utah.

Tomorrow I leave for Amsterdam.  I had planned on going to two museums and making videos.  Unfortunatly, my plane gets in at 2 p.m., and one of the museums closes at 3:30 p.m.  The museum I won't make it to is the Ten Boom House in Haarlem.  I have been here before, and have taken some pictures.  I will have to upload them when I get home.

I will be going to the Anne Frank House, which I have been to before. From there I have some ideas, and I will have to see my timetable.

Fun Facts
"Dutch" is a midieval misnomer on the part of the English, who couldn't tel the difference between the people of the Netherlands and Germany (All things being accurate "Germany" did not exist as a country during this time period.)  The English corrupted Deutsch, which is German for German, into "Dutch". 

Holland was never the name of the country, but was once a province. Today this province is split into two, Nord-Holland and Suid-Holland provinces.

The people who live here call their county Nederland (low country), their language is Nederlands, and they are Nederlanders.  Being a practical people, the recognize Dutch and Holland are popular outside of their country and they don't make a big deal out of it.

Amsterdam lies up to 18 feet below sea level. Fortunately, today's modern dikes can hold back just about anything.  Perhaps the people of New Orleans should come here to study dikes and sea walls.  Because of climate changes, the Dutch government plans to raise the height of the dikes.

Amsterdam comes from Aemstelledamme which means "the dam on the Amstel river".  The original dam site is now a famous public square.

Schiphol airport has a runway that is 15 feet below sea level.  The area where the runway is located was once a lake and the Dutch and Spanish fought a  navel battle here in 1573.

Sunday, October 18, 2009

My Norwegian Hosts: The Qureshi Family

Jamilah and Raad on the sea wall. Their house is the one directly in back of Jamilah.

from right to left Tor, Jamal, Chanthavone holding Raad and Jamiliah

During my second year in Cairo, a newly married couple moved into our church branch (congregation).  They were Jamal and Chanthavone Qureshi.

 Jamal- At about 6'4", Jamal is the child of a Norwegian mother and a Pakistani father.  All of the children in his family have Arabic/Urdu names. Being a devout member of the LDS church, he served a mission in London. He works for an oil company in Norway. He speaks fluent Arabic and some Norwegian and Urdu.

Chanthavone  - ( pronounced John -a -juan      although sometimes for fun I call her Chan tha vo nay) A tiny thing barely clearing 5 feet, Chanthavone was born in Laos and came to the United States with her family when she was seven years old. Leaving her Buddhist upbringing behind, she joined the LDS church.   She went on to serve a mission in Taiwan, where she learned to speak Mandarin. (She says her language skills are minimal, but I heard her speaking to her father over the phone in fluent Laotian.  I bet the Mandarin would come back if she had to use it.)

During her mission, a junior missionary, which in LDS culture is known as a "greenie" suggested to Chanthavone that she meet someone at BYU.  The "greenie" had met Jamal when he was in London.  Chanthavone, as I recall the story, was not pleased at getting dating advice from her "greenie". When she did meet Jamal, she was not thrilled. He, however, was persistant.

A newly married couple, they traveled to Cairo where Jamal studied Arabic at the American University in Cairo.  Chanthavone fit right in with the women in our branch, because she likes to shop!  The first day we met her she said that when she and Jamal had children they would be "Pakilaowegians". (Pakistan, Laos, Norway)

They did go on to have three Pakilaowegians.  But with such a diverse cultural heritage, and with parent names of Jamal and Chanthavone, what to name the kids Tom, Becky.....Nah!

The children being one quarter Norwegian, one quarter Pakistani, and half Laotian would receive names from these cultures.  First names would be Norwegian, Arabic, or Urdu/Persian, and middle names would be Laotian.


Jamilah is their oldest child and only daughter.  Her name is Arabic and means beautiful  She is nine years old. She is a sweet girl. We spent an evening going over her rock collection.  I would like to encourage that hobby. I collected rocks when I was a kid. She looks like her daddy.

Twins, Tor (Norwegian for Thunder) and Raad (Arabic for Thunder pronounced "rod") have names that are easy to pronounce, go with the family naming requirements, would fit into American society, and are "twinny" - a term coined by Jamal.  They are seven years old. They look like mom.  They are currently sporting mohawks, which was their idea.  I have seen pictures of them with full heads of black hair and they are really cute. Not, that the mohawks aren't cute.  Tor keeps telling me he is going to spike his hair with gel for school, Chanthavone whispers to me "Not gonna happen!"

 Tor is the oldest and a mischevious child! I went into the bathroom the other day, and he was hiding in the corner.  Nearly gave me a heart attack! He said he was checking his hair.  Yeah.....but the lights were off and he  was not near the mirror. (Hmm, I used to hide behind furniture at my preschool, and the teachers would have to come looking for me.)

Raad is the more mellow of the two.  He went with me and Jamiliah for a walk to the sea wall the other day. His big source of excitement was feeding bread to the swans. (Ah, I remember doing that as a kid at Ross Park - it is fun!)

All three children are attending Norwegian schools so they can pick up the language.  They will probably transfer to the International school next year, but I am not sure.

It is nice to have good friends who invite me to visit.  I have had a fun time here in Norway.  I hope to return.

Saturday, October 17, 2009

Chasing the Elusive Northern Lights

You will notice I have no photos.  I can't even figure out how to download a free image. Google images has many photos of the northern lights.

Science lesson

  The northern lights are streams of charged particles from the sun (solar wind) that are attracted to the magnetic regions around both the north and south poles. Their interaction in the electrons of oxygen and nitrogen make for a visible aurora.  The lights are not always visible in colors to the naked eye, and if the stream is weak, the color flashes may last only a second or two. Galileo first used the term aurora borealis which is Latin for northern red dawn.

Most professional photos of northern lights are taken with special cameras at a low setting with an extremely slow shutter speed.  I don't know if my camera will work this way. I will be checking my directions on the long flight home.  I did not get any usable shots.

Chasing Around the Finnish Border at Midnight

A small group of us, along with our guide, Gunnar, set forth for a location away from towns and villages. We needed to be in total darkness, without light pollution from city lights.  We went to several places.  Looking up we could see either stars or clouds.  When there is no light to bounce off of them, the clouds appear grayish-black and stars cannot be seen through them.  We were looking for streaks of white.  We found several of them.  One of our group was able to set her camera to the right settings, look for the white streaks and take pictures.  The pictures on her camera did have green lights to them.  Occasionally the streaks would undulate and a flash of pale green could be seen.  I saw the lights. I just could not photograph them.  Imagine a group of adults standing in the dark, out in the middle in nowhere, looking at the sky and getting excited "There's one - ooh, look there!"

When the solar wind is strong, the lights can be seen with the naked eye, and there is color, usually green.  Very rarely, a phenomenon, which Gunnar called "rock and roll time" occurs and other colors, such as red, yellow and blue can be seen.  He has only seen this three times in the last 15 years.

We were out until 1 a.m.  It was not what I was expecting, but it was very interesting, and I would try this again.

Friday, October 16, 2009

Trolls







My friend, Sigmund, whose mother is Norwegian, spent many summers with this Norwegian grandparents.  They would tell him stories about trolls that would, in his words, "Scare me to death!  What were they thinking? I was just a little kid!"

Troll dolls are everywhere in Norway.  They are ugly things.  I thought about buying a few for some of my older nieces, but I am not sure they would appreciate the cultural exchange I am trying for.


There is a whole mythology on trolls, which I won't go into here.  Giant trolls are called ogres.

Really!

Tromso is a happening place despite the first picture of a graveyard!  I just can't get this picture moved.  This is at the older Tromso Domkirke (cathedral).

The Happening City of Tromso












This college town of about 65,000 people is one happening place. While walking to and fro from the university I have found a Godfather's Pizza, a 7-11, a Thai restaurant,  a Chinese restaurant, three kabab places, one of them Turkish.

 Thrilled to see donner kababs outside of Turkey, I went in and had a nice conversation, in English, with the owner.  Over kababs he told me how he and some friends came to Tromso on a college break.  They wanted to see the northern lights.  His friends returned home, but he found odd jobs, and got the Norwegian equivalent of a green card.  He started his own business, married a nice Norwegian girl, who works for a vet, and he has been happy ever since!

Tromso is the starting point of many Arctic expeditions. People have lived in this area for thousands of years. While on a break this morning, I got to look through the rest of the museum our class was at.  I learned that stone age people did not have cavities!  Also, they have found tar with teeth marks in it, perhaps the first chewing gum. 


We even have a branch of the LDS church here.

The Sami People






I have a break between sessions and I want to write this down while it is still fresh.  I told you to look on wikipedia.org for Sami people.

Today I learned that the Norwegians tried for over 100 years to stamp out this race of people by forcing them to attend schools that taught only in Norwegian.  Many Sami integrated themselves into Norwegegian culture so that they would not be discriminated against.  We saw a slide show of a Sami conference where they compare themselves, rightly so, with American Indians, the Native peoples of Central America, and other oppressed people who  were there first, and then someone comes in and tries to erradicate them.  Many Sami immigrated to America.  Their descendents most likely have no idea that they are Sami.  So sad!  One of the places that many of these people immigrated to was Utah!  I had an interesting discussion with our professor when he learned I was from Utah.  Well,  I gotta get ready for this afternoon's class.

Thursday, October 15, 2009

A New Food That I am Not Going to Try

Today, I learned about surstromming.  This is a delicacy of northern Sweden - which I am very close to right now.

In the spring. herring are caught.  They are left for two months in barrels to ferment (rot). Then the fish are canned so that the fermenting process can continue. Six months to a year later, when the cans have bulged out from bacteria, the herring is ready to eat!  People either like this stuff or they don't.  I am told it does not taste like it smells.  Because of the extremely strong smell, the cans have to be opened outside, or under water.  The fish are traditionally served on a flat bread with different toppings.  Most adults like to drink beer with this sandwich.  Children eat it with milk.

Because of the unlikely event that the cans could burst on their own, several airlines have forbidden the transfer of surstromming on many airlines. (You also cannot carry the fruit Durian on planes because of its smell.) Go to google images and put in surstromming.


Tonight, I am in the northern city of Tromso (trom suh).  This college town of about 65,000 is located about 130 miles north of the Arctic Circle.  I am here for a symposium on the Sami People at Tromso University.  See http://www.wikipedia.org/ Sami People for a better explanation than I can give.  I saw a Sami woman tonight as I was walking around town.  I wish I had my camera, then again, I don't need to be an uncouth tourist taking pictures of the locals. Go to google images for Sami People.

It is surprisingly warm.  It is cold, but not freezing. The gulf stream reaches up here.  There is snow on the mountains.  This place is magical!

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Blogger's complaint

Below are two entries.  The canning one is okay.  The other one bugs me as I want to type words, then when I add pictures, they are placed before my explanations. It is very annoying.  Also, I cannot always position my pictures how I want to.

The Canning Factory



Stavanger, before it became an oil city, was once the hub of sardine canning factories.  In an old factory building is a small museum about canning. It actually is quite interesting.  I was there when they were having  fieldtrip of school children.  I stood back and got the basic idea of what they were telling the kids.  The picture to the left is of a drying rack of sardines. (the sardines are rubber.)  Below, I am holding a rubber sardine.  They told the kids how to pack them in cans and explained that they had to do so many cans in a time period.  Then they let them pretend to be factory workers and timed them.  It was a hoot to watch!  The factory workers had to cut off the head of the fish with scissors until someone invented a machine to do it.


Rubber Sardines to the right and below.


I missed the part where they showed the kids how to make cans from tin sheets.  I don't think they let the kids do this as there are warning signs next to the press.

Canning sardines - one job I am glad I never had to do!

Old Stavanger with photos






The Shtandart is a replica of a ship built in 1708 by Peter the Great of Russia. This replica was completely handcrafted in Russia. It was then sailed to Norway through the Arctic Sea. Given that we love pirate movies in the U.S., it is amazing how small this ship is.  Where the housed 40 crewmen and supplies would make for a very tight squeeze.  
 



Old Stavanger is filled with 200-year-old whitewashed homes with cobble streets.  People still live in these homes. Nearby is the harbor with modern ships.  The toddlers are out walking the harbor area with their caregivers.




This is the Stavanger Cathedral
or Domkirke.  Parts of this building date back to 1125 A.D.  Just as I was about to go in, a sign, in Norwegian, was put outside.  I could guess enough of it to tell that the building was closed for the day.  I hope to go inside before I leave for home.







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