That does not mean caves do not interest me. Some day I will go to Carlsbad Cavern in New Mexico. This cave is a national park, and also home to Lechuguilla Caverns, which are only open to scientists. I would LOVE to visit the Cave of Crystals near Naica, Mexico, with the giant crystal formations. Unfortunately, this is also only open to scientists as the caverns are very hot (130 + degrees, and 99% humidity.)
After visiting San Xavier del Bac, my sister and I headed about 40 miles southeast of Tucson, to the small town of Benson, where the Kartchner Caverns State Park is located. Since photography is not allowed, I am using photographs taken by K.L Day, David Elms and Noelle Wilson found in the book Kartchner Cavern State Park by Sam Negri
Some History
There are always going to be boys, like my brother, who just need to explore caves. Discovering a new one, that no human had ever seen.....the ultimate caver's goal. Randy Tufts, a Tucson native, and avid spelunker/caver would often wonder the Whetstone Mountains south of Tucson for caves. The area is filled with limestone, and sinkholes, a sure sign that a cave is somewhere in the vicinity. In 1966, with the help of local minors, and his uncle and friends, they went to explore a certain area. There was a sinkhole, and a crack in the earth, but conditions were not right, and the boulders near the crack were unstable. So, Tufts marked the area on a map. It would be seven years before he would return.
Seven years later, Tufts had met and befriended another university student, Gary Tenen. Tenen wasn't a caver, but he was studying science (entomology - Tufts, of course, geology). In 1974, they, and another friend, went back to the sinkhole. This time they found another horizontal hole. Tufts wondered if the two holes could be connected. The next weekend, they returned to find out.
This time things were different. That original crack looked the same, but something was different. This time Tufts felt warm, moist air, that smelled of bat guano. These were sure signs of a living cave. With some digging, and pounding at just enough limestone to get through, the two followed the air through passages until they were able to stand upright. They found themselves in a corridor that led to a chamber where, bouncing off the light of their headlamps, they found stalactitites, soda straws, and helictites. They walked carefully, trying not to touch anything. The big discovery had been made. Now they had a big problem.
Maps found in Negri's book
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| Mud Flats Overlook is shows the original trail in mud that Tufts and Tenen took. The trail is still there and is used by scientists who study the cave so that new marks are not made. The Rotunda and Throne rooms are one tour, the Big Room is a separate tour. |
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| Randy Tufts ( 1948 - 2002) on the left. Gary Tenen on the right |
It would not take long before others would also find the cave. Grafitti, trash, and souvenir hunters breaking of stalactites would follow. They wanted to keep this cave pristine, but how? They took a year to explore and map the cave with a few other cavers, being extremely careful about leaving footprints, and breaking formations. They would try to figure out how to buy the land and develop the caves, but money was an issue, as was the land rights.
The caverns were on land owned by rancher and science teacher, James Kartchner and his family. For years he has speculated that there were caves on his land just be the sound that came from the limestone and he rode over it with his horse. Tufts and Tenen were leary of Kartchner, and were worried about secrecy of their discovery. They didn't need to worry. James Kartchner was fascinated with geology. James would first see the caverns at the age of 78, when he and five of his sons went with Tufts and Tenen to see the caverns. Max Kartchner would say of this experience, " We were in complete disbelief at the size and beauty of it. It was almost a sacred experience, so exquisite and out of this world." (Negri, p 15)
Using only cash from a joint account set up with the Kartchners, Tufts and Tenen went about learning how one could open a cave to the public. The caving community is tight-knit, so anyone invited to come to the cave had to sign a secrecy document. Even then, leaks happened. The caverns came close to being discovered by others. Tufts and Tenen started using aliases.
By 1984 the idea of making the caves into a state park was in play. Governor Bruce Babbitt toured the caverns in 1985 with his two young sons. He warned them to be very careful, and then he ended up knocking over a small stalagmite. His children have never let him forget it.
Three years, two more governors, two more state parks directors and behind-the-scene political maneuvering, that would make a great suspense movie, were to happen before the state bought the land. Even the wording of the bill of sale was in such obscure legalese that most would have no idea that land was being bought for a state park. No mention of the cave was in senate bill 1188. Until the final vote, only six legislators actually knew what was being bought and why. Finally, on April 27, 1988, Kartchner Caverns State Park became a reality. It only took 14 years of secrecy and clandestine movements to protect the pristine caverns.
Visiting Kartchner
To visit the caverns, one has to make reservations. This can be done online by going to www.azstateparks.com It is highly advisable to get advanced reservations. Just showing up will not guarantee admission. You pick a tour time, and they will leave without you.
Nothing is allowed in the caves, food, water, etc. They are very strict on this and the guides go into great detail about what could happen if these items are brought in. No photography is allowed except on special photography trips that are held 2-3 times a year, and these are almost $200 per person admission.
There are two tours, the Rotunda/Throne Room and the Big Room. The Big Room is closed part of the year because, as our guide told us, "We have a timeshare with the bats for that cave." When both tours are open, you can go on back to back tours.
The caverns are protected by a series of airlocks. For those old enough to remember, it is like going through the doors of the 60's sitcom Get Smart. The guides carry ribbons with them to mark areas that may need to be cleaned later - and each night a crew goes through the caverns looking for things that should not be there.
The caverns are wheelchair accessible.
Now, Pictures!
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| While scientist call these stalactites, cavers have food related terms for cave formations. The tiny thin stalactites are called Soda Straws. They are hollow and grow about a tenth of an inch every 100 years. When the straw gets clogged, the calcite liquid forms Carrots, or as we know them, stalactites. Other caving terms for formations include Cave Bacon, Butterscotch, and Fried Eggs. |
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